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National Printing Co., 16, 18, -jo & 22 < hambera St., New York. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




$500 REWARD! 



I, Prof. J. W. Livingston, of the City and State of New York, do hereby 
notify all persons that I will prosecute to the full extent of the law all persons 
who will engrave, or print, or sell, or cause to be sold, any infringment on 
my system of dress-cutting; and I will give five hundred dollars for the arrest 
and conviction of any one infringing; and I will give one hundred dollars to 
any one informing on such parties ; and no system is genuine without my por- 
trait and signature below eacli piece patented separate. 



Prof. J. W. Livingston informs the public that he makes a specialty of 
furnishing situations to his pupils. All persons learning and desiring the posi- 
tion as cutter, leaving their address and the first opportunity offering, are 
given good situations. 

Merchants and dress-making establishments furnished with first-class 
cutters on short notice. No one sent to an establishment without fully under- 
standing his business. 

I will be personally responsible for all goods spoiled by any cutter I send 
to an establishment. 



Address 



Prof. J. W. LIVINGSTON, 

P. O. BOX 1871, 

New York, N. Y- 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1880, by Prof. J. W. LIVINGSTON, in tin- 
Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 




Invention of French Combination. 






DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING MEASURES, 

Ami Form of Writing Them Down. 



Around chest. 


Waist. 


Under arm. 


Front. 


Back. 


Hip 


32 


24 


8 


14 


16 


45 



No. 1 is Measuring around the Chest. — See Cut, 

First. Take the tape measure in your right hand, and stand behind the 
person you are measuring, and place the tape measure high up across the 
chest (see cut), and close up under the arms and straight across the back, and 
draw the measure tight, Suppose that measure to be 32. 

No. 2 is Measuring around the Waist. — See Cut, 

Second. Measure around waist, Stand in front of the person, and pass 
the measure around the waist, and draw up just as tight as the lady wishes 
her dress to be. Suppose that to be 24. 




No. 3 is Measuring Length under Arm. — See Cut. 
Third. Measure under arm. Place the tape close up under the arm, and 
straight down to the hip. Suppose that to be 8. 

No. 4 and 2 is Measuring the Length of Front. — See Cut. 

Fourth. Measure down front, Place the end of the tape line as high up 
on the neck in front as the dress can be worn, and measure down straight to 
waist. Suppose that to be 14. 

No. 5 and 6 is Measuring Length of Back.— See Cut. 

Fifth. Measure down back. Place the end of tape line as high up on the 
back of the neck as the dress can be worn, and measure down the" full length 
to waist. Suppose that is 1(>. 

No. 7 is Measuring around the Eip. — See Cut. 

Seventh. Take the hip measure. Place the tape measure around the hip, 
Sis inches below the waist, and draw the measure as tight as you want the 
dress to be when completed. Suppose that to be 4."> inches. 



3 



THE GOVERNING MEASURES. 

The chest measure governs the size of neck, height of shoulder, width of 
chest, length of back shoulder, back araisize, and width of back. The waist 
measure governs the size of waist. The length under arm governs the length 
of waist and shape of darts. The front and back measure governs the shape 
of shoulder as the difference between the front and back gives the shape. 



-o- 



DIRECTIONS FOR DRAWING FRENCH FRONT. 

You ivillfincl corresponding numbers on Cut No. 1. 

First. Draw a line the width of bias rule for the hem. Second. Take 
the system, and place the front part straight with the hem line, and dot at 32 
on neck scale for size of neck, and 32 on shoulder scale for height of shoulder, 
and 32 on chest scale for width of chest. Third. Move the system down to 
the dots of neck and shoulder scale, and draw a line from the one to the 
other for shoulder. Fourth. Move the system in half an inch, and draw 
another line for seam, always placing whatever point of shoulder the measure 
may call for at the dot at neck. Fifth. Place the neck of the system to the 
end of inside line of shoulder and to the hem line in front, and draw around 
for size of neck. Sixth. Take the arm-piece, and place the dot that was made 
for width of chest close in the corner, and the armsize to touch at the dot at 
shoulder line, and draw around the curved edge of the armsize for the shape 
of the arm-hole. Seventh. Take the bias rule and lay straight across from the 
hem line to the lower side of the armsize, and draw a line on the upper side 
of the rule from the hem line to the armsize. Eighth. Measure down from 
that line on the hem line, and dot five inches down. Ninth. Place the bias 
rule from above that dot across to lower side of armsize (let the rule just 
touch at armsize), and dot at the arrows on rule for the top of the darts. 
Tenth. Get the length under arm at the right side. Place the straight end of 
the bias rule up to arm line, and measure down the length of waist, and make 
a dot. Eleventh. Take the bias rule and place it straight across to hem, and 
below the dot that was marked for length of waist, and draw a line at Lower 
side of the rule for waist line, from whatever number on waist scale the 
measure may eall for. Suppose the size of waist was 24, then you would 
draw the line from 24 at the waist scale, on bias rule. Twelfth. Dot out on 
bias rule on upper side of rule, at the under arm scale, at whatever the siz<- 
of waist may call for, say 24 : but whatever the number is on waist scale, you 
dot at the same number at the under arm scale, and dot one inch more for a 
seam. Now, be sure whatever the number is on waist scale at lower side of 
rule, it must be the same at the under arm scale on the upper side of bias 
rule. Thirteenth. Measure one and one-half inches in on waist line from the 
hem line, for the front of the first dart. Fourteenth. Draw the dart with bias 
rule; turn the rule wrong side out, and place the rule to dot that was made 
first for top of dart (see ninth move), and to the dot that was made at waist 
line (one and one-half inches in from hem), and place the point at top of dart 
for fleshy forms, and at the notch for ordinary sized forms, and one inch below the 




No. 1, is tlie French Front. 



notch for straight or thin forms, and draw a line by the curved side to waist 
line ; then move the upper end over to the other side of dot, so that the 
straight side of the rule will be even with the dot, and draw a line down by 
the straight side of the bias rule to the waist line, and down-straight to eight 
inches below the waist line. Then turn the rule over, right side up, and draw 
a line down by curved side of rule, from whatever part of the rule the measure 
may call for, to the waist line. Draw the second dart the same as the first 
one, and draw it half an inch in from the first dart. For any kind of basque, 
Polonaise, or Princess, let the darts extend down eight inches below the 
waist line, and allow half an inch to be taken out on each side of the straight 
line at bottom of darts to finish them off; draw the lines down from the waist 
by the straight side of the bias rule. Fifteenth. Place the little arrow (near 
the point of rule), right side up, to the end of the armsize line and to the dot 
below, marked for under arm seam at waist, and draw a line from arm-hole to 
waist 5 then move the rule in, and draw a line one inch in for seam. Sixteenth. 
For drawing under arm French side body, measure in from seam at armsize for 
all chest measures less than 31, dot one and a half inches in ; for 31, 32, 33, dot 
two inches in ; for 34, 35, 36, dot two and a half inches in ; and for all over 36 
chest measure, dot three inches in from seam. Seventeenth. At the waist, get 
half the distance from the back dart to the under arm seam, and make a dot ; 
be sure and place the bias rule slanting from the dot at under arm seam to the 
dart at the waist line. Eighteenth. Take the system, right side up, and place 
the arrow (that is near the notch at back form) to the dot that was made half 
way at the waist for all chest measures over 31 inches, and draw a line by 
the curved side of the system to the dot at armsize. For all chest measures 
less than 31 inches, draw from one inch above the arrow ; I mean, place the 
system so that one inch above the arrow will be at the dot at waist. 
Nineteenth. Place the little arrow on the bias rule to the dot at waist and the 
point on line above, and draw down by the curved side of rule as long as you 
want the garment to be made ; draw from the arrow for all chest measures 
over 31 inches (or, as you make the size for curve above waist), all chest 
measures less than 31 inches. Place the 16-inches line on rule to dot, and 
arrow on line above, for the shape below the waist. Twentieth. Place the 
notch on bias rule to dot at waist, and to the dot at arm line, and draw a line 
down by curved side of rule to waist. Twenty-first Turn the rule end to end, 
the square end of rule down ; place the notch to dot at waist, and draw down 
by the curved side of rule as long as you want the garment to be. After you 
draw down over the hip curve the seam will be straight down to bottom of 
skirt, or whatever garment you are making. Twenty-second. Place the square 
end of the rule to the dot that was made for lenth of waist, arid measure 
down six inches, and make a dot. Twenty-third. Take the bias rule, and 
place the square end to the hem line, and above the dot that was just made 
six inches below waist, and whatever the size of waist may be, dot at that 
number on the waist scale ; then move the square end of rule into that dot, 
and dot out again at size of waist on waist scale ; that will make the skirt 
twice the width of the waist. This rule will be right in all sizes of waist less 
than 24 inches. All over 24 inches use the hip measure, which will be 
explained on page 24. Twenty-fourth. Place arrow on rule to dot number 12, 
and draw a line to dot at number 23, and then draw down from that straight 
with the grain of goods as long as you want the garment to be. Then draw 
half an inch out for seam. 



6 



DIRECTIONS FOR DRAWING THE CENTER OF ENGLISH 

BACK. 

You will find corresponding number on Cut No. 2. 

First. Take the system and place the front straight with the edge 
of the cloth, the same as in the front, and dot at arrow for width of back of 
neck ; then dot at 32 on back shoulder scale, and 32 on the back arm scale. 

Second. Take the bias rule, turn it wrong side 
up, and place the notch to the dot at back 
shoulder scale, and to the dot at neck, and 
draw a line by the curved side of rule. Third. 
Draw another line outside half an inch for 
seam. Fourth. Take two inches off the length 
of shoulder (for the present style of wearing 
the shoulder) and make a dot. Fifth. Place 
the notch on rule to this dot on shoulder at 
two inches in, and with the curved side of 
the rule toward the center of back, and draw 
a line by the curved side, from the two-inch 
dot to the dot below at back arm scale. This 
gives the size and shape of the arm hole in 
the back. Sixth. Dot up on armline 1 J inches, 
for the width of top of side body. Seventh. 
Place the square end of the bias rule to the 
dot at arrow first made, and draw a line the 
width of bias rule across for size of neck. (See 
Cut No. 2.) Eighth. Measure down the length 
of back at whatever number of inches the back 
may be, and make a dot. Ninth. Place the 
square end of the bias rule to the edge of the 
goods, at the dot at length of waist and dot 
one inch in from edge, for the spring in the 
center of back, and one inch more for width 
of back and half an inch for seam. Tenth. 
Take the bias rule and place it to the dot made 
at waist for spring in back, and to the end of 
line at neck, and draw aline down by the 
straight side of rule. Eleventh. Draw a line 
from the dot at waist, and slope out to edge of 
goods at six inches down. Twelfth. Take the 
system, take the front shoulder form, turn it 
wrong side up, and place the notch to the in- 
side dot at waist, made for width of back, and 
draw a line by that curve of system up to the 
1£ inch dot, that was made on arm line, for the 
top of side form, then draw another line half an 
inch out for seam. Thirteenth. Place the square 
end of the bias rule to the dot at waist, and 
measure down six inches and make a dot. Four- 
teenth. Place the rule across from edge of goods 
below the six-inch dot and make a dot at three 
No. 2, is the English inches across, and half an inch more for seam. 
Back. Fifteenth. Draw a line down straight from 




waist to three-inch dot, and draw another line half an inch oul for seam. 
Continue these lines down by the slanting of the rule as long as you wont the 
garment to be. 



-o- 



DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE ENGLISH SIDE BODY. 

You will find corresponding numbers on Cat No. 3. 

First. Take the front shoulder form of the system, turn it wrong side up, 
with the notch downward, and have two inches above the notch straight with 
the edge of the goods, and draw a line from the notch near the neck of system 
down to the lower notch on system. Second. Move the system in half an 
inch for seam and draw another line down to waist, and extend down straight 
as long as you want the garment to be. 
Third. Take the bias rule and place the 
square end of rule to the inside line at top, 
and draw a line 1J inches in for the width of 
the side body at top. Fourth. Place the 
square end of the bias rule to the end of that 
line and with the point downward, and draw 
a line one inch across for seam ; while the 
rule is in that position get the length down 
under arm for waist. To make the seam 
come even with front seam under arm, you 
must measure the front seam, and what- 
ever it measures, take the length down 
under arm (straight down from top) half an 
inch shorter, as the curve in the lines al- 
ways adds half an inch to the length. Fifth. 
Take the bias rule and place the straight 
end toward the center of the back and to 
the dot for length of waist, and take off 
1£ inches from the end of rule, (that is, 
the width of center of back and slope,) or to 
be plainer, place the 1J inch line on rule 
even with line that was made second, and 
dot on the back scale at whatever the size 
of waist may be. and one inch more for seam. 
Sixth. Take the bias rule, turn it wrong side 
up, and place the point to the end of the 1J 
inch line made at top, and to the inside dot 
at waist, and draw a line by curved side 
of rule to waist, then draw another line one 
inch out for seam. Seventh. Measure down 
from waist six inches and dot. Eighth. 
Place rule across at the six inches, and 
measure across twice the width of waist, and 
half an inch for seam. Ninth. Place the 
arrow on rule to dot at waist and to the 
dot below, and draw a line by curved side of 
rule; draw another line half an inch for No. 3, is the English 

*eam. Tight Fitting Side Body. 




8 




No. 4, is the English Front. 



DIRECTIONS FOR DRAWING AN ENGLISH FRONT 

(Sec Cut No. 4.) 

To make the English front, which has two full darts in the front, and 
one under the arm : Make the hem, the shoulder, size of neck, and armsize, 
and darts the same as in the French front ; when you make the arm size, add 
one inch out for a seam. The front is all in one piece, and the seam in dart 
taken out at armsize, so you must add one inch to allow for that. Then at 
the waist size, draw the waist line, and dot at size of waist on the under arm 
scale, and allow two inches more for dart to be taken out, and one inch for 
seam. Then measure in (after drawing the under arm seams) from the inside 
line at armsize, at from l| to 3 inches, as directed in French front, and make 
a dot ; then make another dot one inch in from that dot for seam in dart at 
armsize. Then place the bias rule across from inside line of under arm seam 
at waist, and to the back of the dart, and take the two inches allowed for dart 
out of the center, between dart and seam dot on each side of the two inches. 
Then take the straight side of the rule, and place to inside dot at armsize, 
and to inside dot at waist and draw a line ; then draw a line from outside dot 
at armsize to outside dot for dart at waist. Then get the center of dart and 
make a dot below the waist at eight inches down, and draw a line down from 
both sides of the dart to a point. Then at six inches down from length of 
waist, where yon make twice the width of waist as in French front ; yon add 
two inches more in the English front, and draw the hip lines the same as in 
the French front ; when you get over the curve at hip, make straight down 
as long as you want the garment to be. 



■<> 



DIRECTIONS FOR DRAWING EMPRESS FRONTS. 

(See Cut No. 5.) 

The Empress front has only one dart in front and one under the arm. 
Make the outlines of the front the same as the French front, until you come 
to the top of the dart ; instead of dotting at the arrow, make a dot at 4 inches 
in on rule for top of dart. Then at the waist line, dot in two inches from the 
hem line, for the front of the dart. Put three inches in the dart at waist. 
Make the dart the same as directed in the French front. Then for the dart 
under arm, you add one inch at the armsize, the same as in the English front, 
but you add nothing at the waist or below the waist. Then place the rule 
across from under arm seam to dart, at the waist, and take 2J inches out of 
the center between dart and seam. (The bias rule is 1} inches wide, and the 
dart under arm is 2J inches, or twice the width of the rule, and is just the 
width that would have been taken up had there been two darts in front.) 
Then dot on each side of the 2J inches at waist, and take the bias rule and 
draw a line by the straight side of rule, from the inside dot at armsize to the 
inside dot at waist ; then draw another line from the outside dot at armsize 
to the outside dot at waist ; then draw this dart to a point at eight inches 
below the waist, the same as directed in the English waist. Make this front 
straight down to the bottom of the garment, after you draw over the curve of 
the hip, the same as directed in the other fronts. 



10 




No. 5, is the Empress Front. 



11 



DIRECTIONS FOR DRAWING FRENCH BACK. 

(See Cut No. 7.) 



Place the system straight with goods 
armsize the same as in the English back ; 
the straight end of bias rule at the dot 
at back arm scale, and draw a line one 
inch out for seam, then without moving 
the rule, get thel ength of waist down 
under arm, and place the bias rule 
across below that dot. and the straight 
end of rule to the center of the back. 
Then dot one inch from edge of goods. 
for the slope in the center of back, and 
then dot in on the back scale on rule, 
at whatever the waist measure may 
be, and allow one inch more for seam. 
Then place the point of rule to inside 
dot at arm line, wrong side up, and to 
the inside dot at waist, and draw a line 
down by the curved side ot the rule, 
and draw another line one inch out for 
seam. Then take the slope out of the 
center of the back by drawing a line 
from the neck to waist dot, one inch in 
from edge. Measure down from waist 
six inches, and slope out from dot at 
waist to edge of goods : then measure 
across from edge at 6 inches down, 
and make twice the width of waist 
across and add half inch more for seam ; 
place the arrow on bias rule to dot at 
waist, and at the inside dot at six 
inches below the waist, and draw a line 
by the curved side of the rule, then 
move the rule out and draw another line 
half an inch out for seam, then slant 
down by rule as long as you want the 
garment to be. 



, and draw the neck, shoulder, and 
when you draw the armsize, place 



DIRECTIONS FOR DRAWING 
THE EMPRESS BACK. 

(See Cut No. 7.) 

Make the French back complete ; 
then measure the length of the shoul- 
der, and make a dot at half the length ; 
suppose the length of shoulder to be 
eight inches, make a dot at four inches. 
Then dot half wav across at the waist 




No. 7, is tlic French or £ni 
press Back. 



12 




No* 9, is the French Combination Front. 



13 

line, and dot half way across at six inches below the waist. Place the 
bias rule wrong side up, with the notch to the half-way dot on the shoulder, 
and to the half-way dot at the waist, and draw a line by the curved side of 
the rule from shoulder to waist, and continue the line down straight as long 
as you want the garment to be ; then place the rule again to the half-way dot 
at waist, and to the half-way dot at six inches below the waist, and draw a 
line down straight, and continue the line down as long as you want the gar- 
ment to be ; cut the center of the back out first by the line that runs from all 
the half-way dots, you will find in cutting it will take a piece off the side- 
piece below the waist. Always draft a pattern for this back, and when you 
come to cut the side-piece, let the cloth run down straight, and you will thus 
add the piece you have cut off in the back, without piecing your pattern, and 
it will give the required fullness in the back ; allow seams on every part, 
where they are not marked in the patterns, both on the fronts and backs. 



-o- 



DIRECTIONS FOR DRAWING FRENCH COMBINATION 

FRONT. 

(See Cut No. 9.) 

For double breast, French combination front, draw a line down same as 
hem, as many inches in from front as you want the front to lap over. Then 
place the system to that line, and dot the same, and draw just the same as the 
French front, except at the darts below the waist line ; when you draw the 
straight line in middle of front dart, do not let it extend below the waist line, 
but the back line of the first dart must be drawn down below the waist line 
two inches, and the first line of the back dart is drawn down two inches, and 
to a point connecting with line of first dart. The center line of back dart 
stops at waist line, then measure down from waist line through the point be- 
tween the darts, and dot at eight inches down, then measure one and a half 
inches each way from that dot, or say take three inches out and dot. (See 
Cut No. 9.) Then draw a line from outside of dart lines, front and back 
darts, to these lj-inch dots. For Princess or Polonaise always cut your lining 
first, cut out the darts, place the lining on the outside goods, then bring the 
darts together at the eight inches down, and baste firmly on the outside, be- 
fore cutting outside goods, bringing the edges together before cutting outside 
material does away with all extra fullness in the front. For basques or coats 
let the seam of the dart run down to bottom of garment. Allow seams in 
all places where seams are not marked on the pattern. 



-<)- 



DIRECTIONS FOR DRAWING A HALF-FITTING FRONT. 

(See Cut No. 6.) 

To draw a half-fitting front, place the system the same as for tight-fitting, 
and dot at 32 on neck scale, 32 on height of shoulder scale, and 33 on width 



14 




No. « is the Half Fitting Front. 



15 

of chest scale, always allow one number more on chest scale to give a little 
fullness over the bust; then draw the neck and the shoulder the same as in 
the tight-fitting, and the armsize the same except that you stop at the arrow 
as marked on armsize; get top of dart the same, except instead of dotting at 
arrows, you dot at 5 inches in on bias rule for top of dart. Then get length 
under arm, and whatever the actual measure down under arm may be, dot half 
an inch shorter, in half-fitting, or loose-fitting garments. Then place the rule 
across from hem line, and below the length of waist dot, and draw a line from 
the size of waist number found on waist scale on lower side of rule to the 
hem line in front, then dot in on that line at three inches for the front of the 
dart, then dot at three inches more for size of dart, and make dart the same as 
in the tight-fitting, dot out on under arm scale at whatever the size of waist 
may be, and dot half an inch more for seam ; then place arrow on rule to end 
of arm line, and to dot last made, and draw a line for under the arm seam ; 
move rule in half inch and draw another line for curve below the waist. Place 
the notch on the rule to waist dot (at under arm seams) and the point on the 
line above, and draw by curved side of rule six inches below waist, then turn 
rule over right side up, and put the arrow on rule to end of that line and the 
point on the line above and draw down straight as long as you want the gar- 
ment to be, then draw another line J inch out for seam. 



■(>• 



DIRECTIONS FOR DRAWING A SACQUE BACK. 

(See Cut No. 8. 

Place the system and dot the same as in the tight-fitting backs, only add 

one number more at back arm scale ; draw the neck and shoulder, and take 

two inches off the length of shoulder, the same as the tight-bitting backs ; get 

the arm-hole shape with the arm size. Place the upper arrow on arm size to 

the back arm scale dot, and to the two inch dot on shoulder, and get curve of 

arm-hole with that ; then take the length down under arm the same as the 

sacque front, and dot. Place the rule across below that dot, and with the 

.straight end of rule to the center of the back, and dot one and a half inches in 

for slope in the center of back ; get the size of the waist, and add as many 

inches more as you want fullness, and dot, and a half-inch more for seam ; 

add a half-inch seam at arm size ; then take the system, right srde up, and 

place the notch on system to the dot at back arm scale, and to the inside dot 

at waist, and draw down for shape of under arm seam ; then draw another 

line a half-inch out for seam; then place the rule so that the notch on rule 

will be on the line one inch above the waist clot, and draw down by curved 

side of the rule as long as you want the garment to be; draw another line 

half-inch out for seam. If you want a seam to the shoulder (Empress), then 

measure half way on shoulder line, and half way across at waist line, and dot ; 

then place the notch on rule to the dot on shoulder, and to waist dot, and 

draw a line down as long as you want the garment; then dot halfway across 

below the waist, and draw down for shape of back. For seam to arm size 

(English), place notch on system to center dot at waist, and to half way on 

arm size, and draw a line to waist. 



16 





No. 8, is the Sacqtie 
Back. 



No. 1*2, is Half-Fitting 
English Back. 



17 



DIRECTIONS FOE DRAWING HALF-FITTING BACK. 

(See Cut No. 12.) 

Draw the half-fitting back the sameas the tight-fitting English hack, 
only add one number more at the back arm scale togive a little fullness across 
the shoulder and at the waist line ; make 
the width of back 1£ inches to give full- 
ness, then for line below the waist, place 
the notch on rule to waist dot and point 
on line above and draw by curved side 
of rule as long as you want the garment 
to be. 



DIRECTIONS FOR DRAWING 
HALF-FITTING SIDE BODY. 

(See Cut No. 13.) 

Make the curved lines that sews to 
back the same as in the tight-fitting ; at 
the top draw with the armsize from the 
arrows as marked for side form, take the 
length down for waist half an incli 
shorter than the actual measure as in the 
front. (The reason for taking the half 
inch off the measure down under arm, in 
half-fitting, is on account of curving the 
lines over the hip, adds to the length.) 
Place The rule across below T the length 
of wai*t dot, and with the straight end 
of rule to the center of back, and with 
the half-inch line even with seam line, 
and mark on back scale on upper side of 
rule at whatever number the size of waist 
may be„ and a half inch more for seam. 
Then place (wrong side up) the point of 
rule to outside point at armsize, and to 
outside dot at waist and draw a line by 
the curved side, then draw another line, 
half inch for seam ; at the waist place 
the notch on rule to waist dot, and point 
on line above, and drawdown by curved 
side of rule as long as you want the gar- 
ment to be, then draw another line half 
an inch out for seam. 




No. 13, is the Half-Fitting English Side Body. 



18 

DIRECTIONS FOR DRAWING LOOSE FITTING SACQUE. 

(See Cut No. 10.) 

For sacque, cloak, or outside garment, make either single or double 
breast; if single, mark down for hem in front the width of the bias rule; if 
for double breast, mark in as many inches from the front as you want the lap, 
and draw a line. Place the system the same as for half-fitting front, and dot 
the same, adding one number on width of chest scale; draw full size of arm 
size the same as in tight fitting ; get the length down under arm half-ineh 
shorter than actual measure. Place rule across below that dot and to the 
hem line in front, and dot out on rule at under arm scale at whatever number 
the size of waist .may be, and a half-inch more for seam ; then take the* rule, 
turn it wrong side up, place the point of rule to end of arm size line, with the 
curved side in, and to the outside dot at size of waist, and draw a line (Town 
by the curved side of rule, as long as you want the garment to be ; then draw 
a line half an inch in for seam. Measure for a sacque as you do for a dress ; 
then for suit goods, or any light material, draw one number larger on system ; 
this will make it large enough to go over dress and fit nicely. For heavier 
goods, or with heavy lining, cut two numbers larger ; but in extra heavy 
material cut three numbers larger than the dress measure, on account of the 
seams taking uy more. 



o- 



DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING MEASURE OF SLEEYE, 

And Form of Writing Down the Measure. 

Around shoulder. Elbow. Hand. Length. 

18 14 10 22 

First. Place the tape measure around the arm at shoulder, and as high 
up on the shoulder as you want the sleeve to be, and take the measure close, 
but not tight, and add 2 inches, 

Second. Measure around the elbow close, and having the arm bent 
towards the body, and add 3 inches more. 

Third. Measure around the largest part of the hand close, then add 2 
inches. 

Fourth. Get the length of the sleeve. Place the tape measure to the 
point of the shoulder and around the elbow to the wrist ; have the arm bent 
toward the body. 

The present style of wearing the sleeve to the point of the shoulder 
requires the sleeve to be proportioned in length as follows : Allow 2 inches 
more from shoulder to elbow than from elbow to wrist. As the fashions 
change to long or shorter shoulder, always remember whatever is taken from 
the length of shoulder must be added to the length of sleeve, or vice versa. 



19 




No. lO, is the Front of a Loose Saeqiie. 



20 



DIRECTIONS FOR DRAWING A SLEEVE. 

(See Cut No. 11.) 

First take the bias rule, place it straight with the grain of the goods, 
make a dot at the fifteen ineh line on rule, as marked for elbow of sleeve, then 
dot at the lower side of the square end of rule. Then place your finger on 
the rule at the elbow, so it will not move, and move the square end at top of 
sleeve, down below the dot, but leave the rule at elbow the same as at first, 
to get the proper curve at elbow. Then draw a line from the square end of 
rule, around to the point, by the curved side, then turn the rule end to end, 
wrong side up with the notch to the dot at elbow, and point on the line above, 
and draw down as long as you want the sleeve to be (allow two inches more 
in length of sleeve, from shoulder to elbow, then from elbow to hand for the 
present style of wearing the sleeve, always remember to proportion your 
sleeve according to the length of shoulder in dress or other garment ; what- 
ever is taken off the length of shoulder must be added to sleeve or whatever 




is added to shoulder must be taken off from top of sleeve. Then measure 
down four inches from top of sleeve and dot. (See cut 4.) Take the bias 
rule, place the square end to the four inch dot, and straight with the line, and 
draw a line from that dot down by the straight side of rule, one half of what- 
ever the measure of sleeve around the shoulder may be. Suppose the meas- 
ure close around arm at shoulder was 16, you add two inches to the measure, 
then you would make the line nine inches across, which would be the half of 
18. Place the rule at elbow straight with goods, and draw a line straight 
down one-half of whatever the measure of elbow may be, after adding three 
inches to the close measure of arm at elbow, measure the same way at hand, 
draw the line at hand one-half of the measure of hand after adding two 
inches. Place the rule with the 15-inch line (or curve for elbow) to the end 
<>f tin- straight line at elbow, and to the end of line at shoulder, and draw a 
line by the curved side of rule from shoulder to elbow. Then turn the rule 
end to end and place the notch on rule to elbow dot and draw a line by 
curved side of rule to end of line at hand. Take the system, turn it wrong 
side up, place the notch at back form to the end of inside line, and to the end of 
outside line, and draw around the curved side of the system, about halfway 
bet ween the lines, then move the svstem around so that the notch is one inch 



21 

in on line, and draw on around by the same curve to the upper line, this gives 
the proper curve for top of sleeve. 

For the under part of sleeve, place the square end of rule to outside line 
of sleeve, and across slanting to inside line of sleeve, and make a straight line 
from one to the other, then dot in on that line at 3 inches for top of under 
part of sleeve, then dot 2 inches in from top at the elbow line and U inches 
in from top on the line at hand. Then place the 15 inch line or elbow of 
sleeve to the two inch dot on elbow line and to the three inch dot on upper 
line, and draw a line by the curved side of the rule, turn the rule over, place 
the notch to the two inch dot and to the 14-inch dot at hand, and draw a line 
down. Take the system, right side up, with the arrow at back form to inside 
line and to the line at the three inch dot, and draw around that curve for top 
of under part of sleeve. 



■o- 



MEASURE FOR SKIRT. 

First. Take the measure down the front from waist to floor. 
Second. Take the measure over hip from waist down to floor. 
Third. Take the measure from waist at back down to floor. 

DIRECTIONS FOR SKIRT. 

(See Cut No 30.) 

First measure the waist, and to get the proper proportion for a skirt, 
allow two-thirds of the measure in the front and side piece, and one-third in 
the back. For example, for a 21-inch waist measure put three inches in each 
half of front, five inches in each side piece, and four inches in each side of 
back. For the front of skirt first measure in three inches from folded edge of 
goods, and dot; second, place point of rule to dot, and along the top of goods, 
and curve out to folded edge for the shape for top of breadth ; third, measure 
down from the three inch dot six inches, and dot; fourth, place rule across 
from the six inch dot, with the straight end of rule to fold of goods, and dot 
at five inches across from folded edge ; this makes the width at six inches 
down from top, two inches more than at the top, and gives the proper shape 
in all sizes ; fifth, place the arrow on rule to the three inch dot at top, and to 
the five inch dot, and draw a line down by curved side of rule ; then lengthen 
down as long as you want the skirt to be. 

TO MAKE THE SIDE BREADTH, 

First. Place the rule on the edge of the cloth, with the notch to the top 
of the breadth, and shape the edge by the curve from notch. This will make 
the breadth fit to the front, without wrinkles over the front or side. Second, 
Measure across the top five inches, and make a dot. Third* Place the notch 
on rule to that dot and to the line first made, and draw across to give the 



22 



shape over the hip. Fourth. Measure down six inches from top, and make a 
dot. Fifth. Place rule across below the six inch dot, and with the straight 
end to the edge of cloth, and dot at seven inches across, or two inches more 
than at the top. Sixth. Place the arrow on rule to the five inch dot at waist, 
and to the seven inch dot, and draw a line down by the curved side of rule as 
long as you want the skirt to be. 



TO DRAFT THE BACK BREADTH OF SKIRT. 

First. Measure in from fold of goods three inches, and dot ; then measure 
down on fold of goods ten inches, and draw a line down from the three inch 
dot to the ten inch dot ; this will take a V, six inches wide at top, out of the 
middle of the back breadth : then measure across straight from the three inch 




No. 30. 



dot. and mark at four inches more, or half the back measure; then measure 
down straight from the four inch dot six inches, and place the rule across 
below the six inch dot, and mark two inches out from that dot ; then place 
the arrow on rule to the dot at waist for the half of back, and to the dot below, 
and draw a line by the curved side of rule down as long as you want the skirt 
to be made. 



TO DRAFT A SKIRT WITH TRAIN. 

Make the front breadth the same as for walking skirt, and make the side 
Invadth the same, down as far as the walking length ; then add one-third 
length of the train to the walking length at the seam that sews to back; make 
the seam that sews to front the same length as the front, and make two-thirds 
of the width of the side breadth straight across from front, before commencing 
the t rain ; then place the point of rule, right side up, to the dot at two-thirds 
way across, and down to the line of skirt, and draw by the curved side of the 
rule down to where the train is added to the walking length. A train made 



23 

this way never turns over, and always gives a graceful appearance. For th« 
the train in back breadth, add full length of train in the center of back breadth 
(double of goods), ond add one-third length of train at the part that sews to 
side breadth; then measure across straight from center of back breadth at the 
train, and make one-third the length of train straight across ; then take the 
rule ond place the point of rule to the end of that line, wrong side up, and 
draw a line by the curved side up to the end of line where the train is added 
to walking length at side. Never add anything to the width extra, as the 
slope from the hip down gives width enough for any length of train. If hoops 
are worn, the hip measure will be larger, and the skirt we widen in proportion 
to what is added at the hip. 



■o- 



DIRECTIONS FOR DRAFTING CHILDREN'S FRONTS. 

Place the system for the front with the childrens's line even with the 
folded edge of the goods, and dot at whatever the chest measure may be; 
draw the shoulder from the square shoulder for children, and draw the neck 
with the children's line even with folded edge of goods ; get the armsize from 
the children's curve as marked on arm piece ; get length of waist down under 
arm. and place the rule across below the length of waist dot, and with the 
square end of the rule even with folded edge of goods and mark at one-third 
the size at waist measure and half inch more for seam ; if you want to have a 
dart in front then you must add as much to the size of waist (more than the 
exact measure) as you want to put in the dart ; then to get under arm seam 
place the notch on rule to the end. of the line at armsize and to the outside dot 
at waist and draw a line by the curved side of the rule (wrong side up) down 
as long as you want the dress to be ; if you want a princess front dot half way 
on the shoulder and dot it from folded edge (down at waist length) at two 
inches in and draw a line down by placing the notch on rule to shoulder dot 
and draw by curved side of rule to waist and straight down to bottom of dress, 
then put the notch on rule one inch above the dot at waist on the line and 
draw down for shape of center of the front. For a G-abrielle front dot half 
way upon armsize and at the waist the same as for a Princess ; then place 
the dot on system to dot at waist and to the dot at armsize and draw a line 
by the shoulder form of system ; below the waist make same as Princess. 



DIRECTIONS FOR DRAWING BACK FOR CHILDREN. 

- Take the width of rule off the edge of goods for a hem, then take half an 
inch more off for lap, then lay the system with the children's line even with the 
line made for lap and dot at arrow made for back of neck for children and dot 
at whatever the chest may be at the back shoulder scale and the back arm 
scale, then place the 15-inch line to a dot at back shoulder scale and draw 
a line from there to dot at neck, then draw another line half inch above for 
seam ; get the armsize the same as for large waist and take the length down 
under arm and dot ; place the rule across below that dot and even with line 
for lap and dot at one-half of the measure of back; you put two-thirds of the 
waist measure in the front for children and one-third in the back ; then take 
rule, turn it wrong side up and place the notch to armsize and to the dot at 



24 

« 

waist and draw a line down as long as yon want the dress to be and draw 
another line half inch out for seam ; to make seam to shoulder (Princess) dot 
half way on shoulder, half way at waist and halfway at six inches below waist, 
then place notch on system to half-way dot at shoulder and draw a line to 
waist, then place rule to dot below waist and draw a line from waist down as 
long as the dress ; for a Gabrielle dot half way in armsize and place notch on 
system to dot at waist and get the curve by the shoulder form of system ; 
make the same as the Princess below the waist. 



■o- 



GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 

In all chest measures over 32 inches, you must drop on the neck scale 
and height of shoulder scale in all kind of waists, either tight or loose fitting. 

33, 34 and 35 chest measures drop to 32 

36 and 37 " " ?! 33 

38 and 39 " " " 34 

All above 39 " " " 35 

But in all sizes use the the full measure on the width of chest scale. 
When a lady measures 26 or 27 chest measure, you must add 2 numbers on 
width of chest scale ; 28 chest measure add one number on width of chest to 
give fullness over bust. These numbers belong to misses' sizes, ancl no 
allowance is made for fullness. 



RULE FOR HIP MEASURE. 

Measure around the hip at six inches below the waist, and put two-third* 
of i\ie measure in the front and side piece, and one-third in the back. Measure 
across the front at six inches below the waist length; take out the size of the 
darts, and see what is left ; subtract that amount from the one-third of fcbe 
hip measure, and put the balance in the side piece, use the hip measure in all 
sizes of waist over 24 inches. 



RULE FOR VARIATION OF DARTS. 

To get right shape of darts, all lengths of waist, down under arm of less 
than seven inches, draw the dart from point of rule, all between seven and 
nine inches, draw from notch on rule, nine inches and all above nine draw from 
the fifteen inch line on rule. From the point is a full round dart. From the 
notch is a half round and from the fifteen inch line is a straight dart. 



RULE FOR BASTlXti. 



Successful dress-making, tailoring, and all kinds of plain and fancy 
sewing, depends largely upon good basting. Whal seamstress but can recall 
many a sad experience and delay in ripping and altering, all because she had 
theught to make a little time by not stopping to baste before sewing, or 
because she had so carelessly basted. Poor basting is api to prove w 
than no basting at all. Another mistake is to consider that pinning will do 
just as well as basting. It is true that a straight seam of a skirt or trim- 
ming may be pinned evenly every three or four inches, so as to make it quite 
sate tor stitching. But it is quite impossible to pin waist seams so as to in- 
sure an artistic effect, even when executed by an accustomed hand. A 
garmeut well basted is half finished. Accurately cut, artistically basted, 
neatly finished, or the costume of the most costly material will look unfin- 
ished and of mean effect. Before basting a lining and outside together,, 
stitch the scam of any piecing of either or both, and lap it open. Lay the 
outside on a perfectly smooth surface, table or lap board with the facedown. 
Make smooth any wrinkles and straighten any bias or stretched appearance. 
Lay the lining on with the right side up, taking care that the edges of the 
upper and under are even. Pin so closely that neither can slip when bast- 
ing or handling them. Next baste them together with a lining stich, taking 
a short cross stitch and then a long stitch — the short one from one-fourth to 
one-half inch ; the long one from two to three inches. Take each stitch the 
same length, pulling the thread each time so that any stitch shall hold t he 
material with an ecptal firmness, and avoid the danger of drawing the long 
stitch so tight as to slacken the goods beneath it. Take a needlefull of 
thread of about one yard long, make knot to commence with, and always take 
a back stitch at the last of each needlefull. Baste just on the tracing or 
line marked for seam. For basting on wadding or interlining, observe all the 
nbove directions, and for basting the facing on a skirt, cut the wiggan about 
twelve inches wide, and sew the widths in one long strip : bind the upper side 
with muslin, make the lower edge perfectly straight, and baste the bottom of 
the skirt and the lower edge of the wiggan together. Leave the skirt right 
side out and lay it on the lap board, which should be held upon the lap. 
Now make the outside and facing smooth, regardless of where the plaits in 
the wiggan will come, taking care that the upper side does not draw or 
stretch. Pin it firmly the length of the board, then move the skin around 
and pin again, until all the facing is pinned in its place. Now take it ofif r 
turn it wrong side out, and place it back on the board, same as above, and 
baste across the top of the facing with a short stitch. Turn the bottom of 
the skirt in and baste it on the facing. Then trim off the projecting wjggai 
before basting on the braid. How to baist a waist is the first thing under 
consideration. We now proceed to the fronts, which should first be basted 
smoothly on the lining, commencing at the neck, and following down the line 
traced for the hem, then up and down both sides the darts. Great care 
should be taken not to get the outside the least bit tighter than the lining, 
especially in the snugly-fitting portions of the waist, or the strain of wearing 
will come upon the material, and ruin the beauty, if not the service, of a cos- 
tume perhaps the first time it is worn. Always let the work lay smooth and 
flat upon the table or lap board. Do not put one hand on the under side oF 
the work, as is so natural to do when basting a lining and outside together. 
Set the needle in cross-wise when taking up the short stitch. Do not (Ira w 



the thread tight, or crowd the materia] beneath the long stitch. The stitch 
taken upon the needle, or short stitch, should be from one-quarter to one-half 
inch in length, and the basting or long stitch about two or three inches long. 
Always cut eaeh long basting before removing it from fine materiala. Do not 
pin the work down or hold it over one finger, but let it lay easy on the lap- 
board or table. Always fasten the last stitch firmly. Commence to baste a 
dart, as well as all waist seams, from the top down, take two stitches straight 
at top above dart, then follow the line of the tracing to the bottom of the dart. 
Pay no attention to the outside edges of seams, but be very careful to always 
have the lines of tracing come exactly together after basting the darts ; then 
take up dart under arm, if in an English or Empress waist, or a French side 
form, you must sew side piece to front, commencing at the top and sewing 
down ; then sew the seams in back, and then join the back and front together 
from armhole down. The side body and under arm seam should commence 
evenly at the armhole. Before hasting the shoulder, lay. the two front shoul - 
ders. together and stretch very tight before sewing to back. The above rule 
!ls inevitable for a good fitting shoulder ; by stretching. the front very tight it 
avoids the serious and very frequent fault of a wrinkled, ill-fitting front about 
the neck. In finishing the neck, hold the band, piping, or collar a little fuller 
than the neck. , Always have the lining, cut on the same grain of material as 
the. outside, baste the collar on commencing in the center of the back, and 
baste the right side on rjrst. The buttons aud button-holes should always 
be complete before putting on the collar, in order to finish it neatly in the 
front. The seam of the collar should be concealed by running pn. one side, 
: and felling down on the other. ; 

. Unless the lining of a basque is of silk, it should always have a facing of 
the same or some desirable material on the bottom. After the seams have 
been stitch dd up and laid open, it is then r^ady for the facing, which may be 
either bias or straight, but is usually better on the straight. Commencing at 
the back, fit a piece on just the shape of the basque. If the seams in the 
facing are quite frequent, it will only help to make it set better. Fit the 
facing only on one side, and then cut duplicate pieces for the other side. Do 
not join the seams of the facing, except as each pieee is laid on let it lap over 
the other far enough to fell down. After basting, each piece on firmly, fell 
the; seams of the facing on the edge of the basque, and fell the facing upon it 
.with a short neat stitch, or if a cording is used, baste on the cording, then fit 
the, facing, and fell it on, same. as. above. If the waist has long tabs and open 
seams, the entire tab should be faced. Always let the lining of the 
basque continue beneath the facing. A belt waist should finish at the proper 
waist line, having the belt set up on the waist and not below the bottom of 
the waist. The belt must always be made of a lengthwise strip, and, if pos- 
sible, without piecing. Cut the belt two and one-half inches wide, turn in one 
halfjnch on each side, and baste it in with a short stitch. Now baste it on 
tin 4 waist, leaving the lower edge to come a trifle below the waist in order 
that when it is basted against the lining it will just cover the bottom of the 
waist, and make a neat edge to sew the skirt on. Always put the outside 
belt on first, then lay the lining on the under side, and after stitching through, 
turn the lining down, and turn it up on the lower edge against the outside 
belt ; now baste them together with a fine thread that need not be removed 
after the skirt is sewed on. Always put the belt on a little tight, always 
finish the seams of a belt waist the same as the seams of a basque. If the 
waist opens in the back, the belt will finish even with the backs of the waist, 
but if in the front, let the right side project far enough to reach the opening 
in the side of the skirt. When a lady has become able to make and set in a, 



1 1 



sleeve properly, she has mastered one of the important- details of dress-mak- 
ing. Ii is of little consequence that a dress has been properly ou1 and artisti- 
cally fitted, unless it have a smooth, neat finish, and perhaps there is no one 
thing about a dress finishing that so often destroys the beauty of material 
and graceful effect as that of sewing in a sleeve. It is not uncommon f'<»r us 
to see a grey-blue, or green dress, having the sleeves sewed in with white or 
black thread, without any stay or support about the arm size, and the stitches 
so long as to give plenty of space between each one, and of making scry 
prominent the objectionable thread ; or another common fault is, the outside 
or elbow seam located on top of the arm, and twisting around at the wrist, 
straining at the elbow and arm size in another place, and puffing out in 
another, when the elbow seam should have been in its right place, which is 
just so far around in the back of the arm size as will make it come exactly 
underside of the tip of the elbow. The fashion and size of an arm size and 
sleeve are subject to such variations as to make it quite impossible to give a 
rule for placing this important seam at any certain distance from either the 
shoulder or side body seam. Thn best possible way to get the sleeve in the 
arm. size perfect is, after it is finished, and the arm size has been made firm 
by either a bias of the lining or a cording around it, is to put the waist, or 
garment upon a figure near her size, and then pin the sleeve in the arm size, 
moving and changing it until it sets smooth over the top of the arm and 
around the arm size ; also easy and comfortable over the elbow. One of the 
first rules in getting an artistic and workmanlike sleeve is to cut it on the 
proper grain of the goods. It is a very common occurrence, where there is a 
jnap or figure in goods, to get one part wrong. In laying down a sleeve pat- 
tern, it is so natural to turn the small part around because it will slip down 
farther into the narrow width, and save on the entire width at the other end. 
If material has a nap or figure with an up and down to it, and the pattern to 
be cut is a coat sleeve, lay the upper side down on the goods with the top 
part, towards the top of the figure or nap. Then lay the underside on with 
the top the same way. The lining of waist and sleeves should always be of 
the same material. Always cut the lining on the same grain of the material 
as the outside. Baste the outside on the lining, then cut facing for the bot- 
tom of the sleeve by laying a bias strip two and one-half inches wide on the 
right side of each piece of the sleeve at the hand, and cut it tho same shape. 
If the facing is laid on wrong side up, it will be ready to stitch. The facing 
of a sleeve should always be of a soft material, and generally it will reward 
one for the trouble of looking up or even purchasing a bit of silk to make a 
neat finish just at this important part of the costume. The lining should 
always reach to the bottom of the sleeve, and the facing cover it. After 
shaping the facing as above, stitch across the bottom of each part of the 
sleeve through the facing. Then turn it down and baste the outside seam up 
first, then be careful that the seams of the facing meet. Never pin down the 
work when basting or stitching up the seam of a sleeve after basting up the 
outside seam of the sleeve, which extends through the facing, baste the inside 
seam in the same manner, and then stitch with a loose tension. Then turn 
up the facing, and baste it ciose on the lower edge before felling it at the top 
of the facing, or it will be apt to sag down and show below the sleeve. If a 
cuff is to be put on, it must be finished and trimmed before it is sewed on the 
sleeve. When a cuff is to be used, the facing should be laid on and felled to 
tin 1 , lining side, leaving the bottom edge unfinished. Turn the cuff wrong 
side out, and the sleeve right side, and join them at the bottom with seam on 
the the right side, thus : wdien the cuff is turned back the seam will be con- 
cealed. Fasten it up on the sleeve by either sewing a button or bow through 



28 

both, or slip stitch it a little below the top on the underside of the sleeve. 
The sleeve should always be basted before sewing in the armhole, and should 
always fit smoothly in the arm size. Always sew a sleeve in with strong 
silk, twist, or thread the same color as the material. Always use single 
thread, and take a short back stitch. If double thread is used, there is a 
possibility of one being drawn tighter than the other, thus leaving a loose 
stitch to gap, and a tight one to break. Sew the sleeve in from the sleeve 
side. If a visible cording be used, it must invariably be made of a perfect 
bias, and sewed in closely, or it will be impossible to get an artistic appear- 
ance, for better never have a cording around the arm size than to have the 
sleeve sewed in so far from the cord in one place as to show the stitches 
which basted it in, and in another place half, if not all the cord covered up by 
taking too deep a seam. If difficulty is found in sewing in a cording, our 
suggestion to such is, always see that a perfect bias is used for a covering, 
and after basting the cord in with a fine stitch, trim off the edges evenly, so 
that any part of the cording shall be just the width of the seam where it is to 
be used. For thin arms the present style of sleeve (close-fitting) is improved 
by basting a thin sheet of wadding between the outside and the lining on the 
upper side of the sleeve, sewing it in with the sleeve, and letting it finish 
above the elbow. 



-0- 



No. 23, is a coat collar, drawn with the straight side of rule, and front 
shoulder. See Cut. 

No. 24, is a pointed collar, drawn with the straight side of rule and front 
shoulder. See Cut. 

No 25, is a standing collar, drawn with front shoulder of system. See 
Cut. 




29 



TIME IS MONEY. 



1 think you will agree with me that time saved in fitting garments is 
very great. While you wait on a customer getting ready to come to your 
place of business to be fitted, you could oftentimes have the garment finished. 
Then, when she does come, every one is hurry and bustle to get it finished, as 
the one that delays her coming to the last moment is the one that is deter- 
mined to have her dress at the moment promised, when she is the one to 
blame for all the trouble. How often the seamstress works far in the " wee, 
sma! hours " to oblige a lady, or through fear of losing her work, when all 
might have been saved by having a perfect system of cutting, requiring 
no refitting. No coming back to try on with my system. Any lady can, bj 
properly observing my instructions, taking her measures correctly, and using 
oare in her drafting, cut a garment for any figure, and of any style, and 
feel sure of having a perfect fit, and time and trouble both saved. It is a 
self-evident fact that if you can do a certain amount of work in so much less 
time than you have been in the habit of doing it, and yet obtain the same 
amount for doing it, you will find yourself better remunerated ; and if, at the 
same time, you are enabled to give better satisfaction to your customers, by 
your means of insuring a better fit, it is evident you will increase your patrons, 
and also save the trouble and time you have spent in making alterations, and 
in having misfits thrown upon your hands. The first great point to insure 
success in any profession is excellence, and yet, while every other art lias 
progressed to a great extent, the art of dress-cutting (and it is an art) Iims 
been at a standstill. This fact has been so frequently brought to my obser- 
vation, while traveling through the different States, and calling to my mind 
the different ideas that are almost daily presented, I do not wish to intimate 
that there is a want of talent, or that dressmakers are imperfect in themselves, 
"hut quite the contrary, I have found ladies of high culture and refinement in 
every place in the Union ; and how often I have found them working on the 
principle of " I guess it will fit," and " 1 always cut by my eye," or, even 
worse, depending on a worthless chart, with which the country is rilled, 
strewn broadcast over the land, and are not worth the paper they are prim til 
on. No form, I care not how well proportioned it may be, can be fitted per- 
fectly by guesswork. Every dressmaker must have a perfect system to cut 
by, or she will fail to give satisfaction either to herself or her customer. A 
dressmaker with nothing but a chart or guesswork to depend on, rarely ever 
gives satisfaction, and her system of operating leads to results not only annoy- 
ing and ruinous to herself, but exceedingly disagreeable to her customer : and 
it often happens a lady knows (or thinks she knows) more about your business 
than you do yourself, and when you commence your dreaded task of fitting 
her dress, she takes her position before the glass, instructs you in all tin- 
points you may think and do know all about. She will tell you, you must 
take it up here, let it out there, and do many things you have never heard of 
before, that you finally begin to doubt whether you are fitting her dress or 
taking a course of instructions from her, or listening to a free lecture gotten 
np for your exclusive benefit, and although she may be entirely ignorant of 
dressmaking, she is very willing to teach you a better way ;. and although it 
would be very impolite in you not to answer her, you must allow yourself to 
become nervous and irritated, without being able to defend yourself: and as 



i r 

you work without rule, you feel you have no advantage over her, and must 
bear with insults and impertinent remarks you are not able to refute. The 
fact is, all garment cutting without a perfect system amounts to mere specu- 
lation. They may fit, or they may not. You have no more certainty of a 
dress fitting than a blind man would have of hitting a mark with a gun placed 
in his hands, and you owe it to yourself, as well as to your customers, to 
discard at once and forever the old, tedious, and uncertain way for fitting, 
which the present age of improvement renders ridiculous, and adopt a new 
and easy and perfect principle, having something certain to depend on, and" 
something which lifts you above the petty insults of patronizing customers. 

This uncertain mode of cutting garments and trouble of refitting have 
long kept the dressmaker a subject of incessant toil and the recipient of scanty 
remuneration, whilst you are always working at a disadvantage, and are 
always hunted out by those that intend to turn your disadvantages to their 
own profit. How often, when you are in the greatest hurry to finish some 
long-delayed garment, kept back day after day, waiting on a careless cus- 
tomer to come to be fitted, and every moment's time needed to finish it, some 
one enters. You must leave all, and see to her orders. She will look at 
your books, talk about the styles, examine your work, and talk and talk, and 
never go ; ask your prices, criticize your style of sewing, trimming and prices, 
and then, probably, after keeping you an hour or more, go out without giving 
you an order, or, perhaps, tell you she is sorry you have nothing to please 
her. All this is very annoying, but none the less true. But without a per- 
fect system you must remain as you are. With a practical knowledge of my 
system, you can take the measure of a customer in one minute. That accom- 
plished, and the style of suit decided on, you can return to the duties of your 
workroom without any farther loss of time, feeling confident your customer 
will be accurately fitted ; that she will not be subjected to the old system of 
trying on, and after her measure is taken properly she can depart. You need 
not see her again. You know you can cut out your work whenever it suits 
you best, feeling confident that when you do So, it will be without trouble and 
without guesswork in any way. Every line will be in its place, and working 
n this perfect way makes your business a pleasure instead of a worry. It 
iwill not take you long to discover that after acquiring a perfect knowledge 
of my system, you can cut and prepare for the workroom more than ten times 
the amount of work in the same space of time you required in the old way r 
and you can more than double your profits, and save material, in cutting in a 
systematic way. You will do away with the rule of leaving an inch or two 
here or there to take up or let out, as in the old way of having to be tried on ; 
besides, it will save much time and temper. I feel I could not say enough 
on this subject, were I to write a lifetime. Having been in business for 
twenty-two years, traveling in eight different countries, and inventing a per- 
fect system of dress-cutting, making it a study — the study of my life — I think 
I ought to know what I write when I say a lady's dress requires as much sys- 
tem, experience, and accuracy to make it fit properly as the cutting of a gen- 
tleman's coat 5 and how can we expect it to fit properly if it is cut by guess, 
or chart, or patterns ? Where could we find a merchant tailor who would 
allow a piece of goods to be taken to his work-room to be cut by any such 
way ? AH charts are worthless. No form can be fitted by a bust measure. 
It is unreasonable to believe such a thing. Take any chart, I care not whose 
it may be, can one shape of shoulder fit every form, or one dart ? Can a 
round shoulder fit a square shoulder? Can a sloping shoulder fit a stoop? 
I wonder dressmakers can be so blind as to spend their money for such worth- 
less things. All she gains is merely the satisfaction of knowing she has been 



31 

humbugged, cheated out of her money. I say here, with all due respect to 

every one, and knowing full well what I am saying, that there arc but two 
perfect systems of cutting in the known world for ladies' dresses: One is that 
old reliable system, so well-known, and deservedly known, all over the 
country, I mean S. T. Taylor's system, of New York City; and so far as 
getting our points to work from, is identical with my own. His system of 
getting square measure for his starting point, as well as my using it for my 
starting point, are precisely identical with each other. While bis system is 
in itself perfect, it requires a thorough practical knowledge of dressmaking to 
use it properly and successfully ; while in my system 1 have invented and 
patented eight different forms of shoulder, to fit the different forms of persons ; 
twelve different forms of dart, the various shapes of neck, and a variable chest, 
measure. I have combined the form of the person with the square, simplifj 
ing it aDd making it so easy as to bring it within the comprehension of even 
a child. I have tested it ; am perfectly willing to test it at all times. I, or 
any of my pupils, can fit any shape or form of person ; fit them accurately, 
and without re-fitting. I am proud to say, and the public will, I know, bear 
witness, so far as my system is known, that I have brought it to that stage of 
perfection that it cannot be improved upon, and I defy the world to produce 
anything, call it by what name they will, that can do the same perfect work 
my system will. I speak confidently of what my system will do. I have 
taken the square, placed it inside, with the form of the person outside, and as 
I have combined the two, I know it is right. I am willing at all times to 
test it, and on any form. There are hundreds of charts as well as other worse 
humbugs, who pretend to use the square, or actual measure system, who are 
claiming to be inventors of squares. I think some of the worst deceivers who 
are now before the public are those claiming to have patented squares. If 
they had ever owned or read the Bible, they would find the square was used 
in the building of Solomon's Temple. They are perhaps like a noted pre- 
tended inventress of a square. I called this fact to her mind, she not compre- 
hending who Solomon was ; said it was an infringement on hers ; and many 
others, even worse, are trying to take people's money, giving nothing in 
return but what is worthless. 

I shall now draw my remarks to a close, by urging all who intend to 
make dressmaking or dress-cutting their business, that they will give my 
system a fair, impartial trial. I never misrepresent in any way. I have estab- 
lished my prices as low as I can possibly afford to teach, so as to bring it 
within the means of all, and I always teach thoroughly, give satisfaction, or 
make no charge for instruction. 

My pupils are fitted to take a situation in any large establishment ; can 
command higher prices and give better satisfaction than by using any other 
method of cutting ; and no lady has ever failed to express her satisfaction 
when she has finished her instructions. 

Professor J. W. Livingston. 



32 



YARDS REQUIRED FOR DIFFERENT GARMENTS 

AND TRIMMINGS. 



When consulting the list below it should be borne in mind that each trim- 
ming is estimated in a certain width material, for a medium size pattern, and 
for the fashion of the present day. The skirts, sacques, polonaise, etc., all 
being scant and clinging, are very different in shape from those used hereto- 
fore. The fact of an entire change taking place in the costume, or of 
woman's dress, once in seven years, is being gradually realized. 

WAISTS. 

Waist, basque, 9 inches long, with sleeve, 2J yards of 27 inch, 3 yards of 
24 inch. 

Waist, basque, 9 inches long, with sleeve, silesia, 2 yards. 
Waist, basque, 9 inches long, with sleeve, muslin, 2 yards. 
Waist, round, 2 yards of 27 inch, 2 J of 24 inch. 
Sleeve, coat, one pair, silesia, | yard. 
Sleeve, coat, one pair, drilling, 1J yards. 
Sleeve, coat, one pair, 24 inch, 1^ yards. 

SKIRTS. 

Skirt, walking, 40 front, 42 back, 4 yards of 27 inch, 4J of 24 inch. 

Skirt, walking, 40 front, 9-inch train, 4.J yards of 27 inch, 5 yards of 24 
inch. 

Skirt, train, 15-inch train, 5 yards of 27 inch, 5J yards of 24 inch. 

Skirt, train, 20-inch train, 5J yards of 27 inch, 6 yards of 24 inch. 

Skirt, train, 35-inch train, 7J yards of 27 inch, 8 yards of 24 inch. 

POLONAISE. 
Polonaise, plain draped, 7 yards of 27 inch. 8 yards of 24 inch. 

THING ESSES. 

Princess, short walking, 8 yards of 27 inch, 9 yards of 24 inch. 
Princess, 18 inch train, 9 yards of 27 inch, 10 yards of 24 inch. 
Princess, 27 inch train, 10 yards of 27 inch, 11 yards of 24 inch. 



CLOAKS AND 8ACQUBS. 

Sacque, street, 36 inches long, 4 yards of 27 inch, 4 J yards of 24 huh. 
Sacques, street, 50 inches long, 5 yards of 27 inch, 6 yards of 24 inch. 



WRAPPER. 

Wrapper, French sacque, 5 yards of 36 inch. 8 yards of 27 inch. 

WATERPROOF. 

Waterproof, sacque and cape, 4J yards of .34 inch. 
Waterproof, circular, 3J yards of 54 inch. 

DOLMAN. 

Dolman, for light wrap, 1% yards of 54 inch. 
Mantelet, medium size, 1 yard of 54 Inch. 

DRESSING-GOWN. 

Dressing-gown, gents'. 3 yards of 54 inch. 
Snioking-gown. gents', 2 yards of 54 inch. 
Night-shirt, gents', 3 yards. of 36 inch. • 
Day-shirt, gents', 3 yards of 36 inch. 

UNDERCLOTHING. 

Chemise, plain, 2J yards of 36 inch. 

Chemise. 4-inch ruffle on burton. 3 yards of 36 inch. 

Night-dress, plain, 5 yards of 36 inch. 

Drawers, plain, 1} yards of 36 inch. 

Dressing sacque, 2£ yards of 36 inch. 

Apron, plain, J yard of 27 inch. 

TRIMMINGS. 

Ruffle, bias, 2.V inches wide for 3-yard skirt. J yard of 27 inch, -| yard of 
24 inch. 

Ruffle, bias. 5 inches wide for 3-yard skirt, J yard of 27 inch, 1 yard of 
24 inch. 

Ruffle, bias, W inches wide for 3-yard skirt. 1J yards of 27 inch, 2 yards 
of 24 inch. 

Kilt flounce, unplaited. should be three times its length when plaited. 

Puffs should be graduated by the rule for ruffles. 



GENERAL 





c 



T beg leave to call your attention to the General 
Purchasing Agency I have added to my business. 



DRESS MAKERS, MILLINERS, 



AND OTHERS, ARE INFORMED THAT 



Eonls fill te Sent ai Less Cost 



AND OF AS FINE QUALITY 

as can be found in the City, as I have made arrange- 
ments with Wholesale Dealers, and can furnish 

Goods or Trimmings 

at a small commission, thereby saving the expense of 
a trip to the City. 



ALL OltDEHS MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY ONE -THIRD 
OF THE AMOUNT OF BILL.. 



LIST OF PRICES FOR SYSTEMS. 



System in wood, mounted in silver, with instructions $25 00 

System in leather-board, bound in silver, with instruct ions 20 00 

System in leather-board, bound in brass, with instructions 15 00 

System in wood, mounted with silver, without instructions 15 (to 

System in leather-board, bound in silver, without instructions 10 00 

System in leather-board, bound in brass, without instructions 5 00 

System in leather-board, unbound 3 00 

Two systems, leather-board, bound in brass 8 00 

Two systems, leather-board, unbound 5 00 

Extra — 

Instructions for cutting children's garments. 2 50 

Instructions for cutting ladies' and children's underwear 2 50 

Instructions for cutting boys' clothing-, extra 6 00 

Cutting gentlemen's shirt and dressing-sack 2 50 

One instruction book 1 00 

One dozen books 10 00 

Half dozen books 5 50 

Superior tracing wheels, each 50 

One dozen wheels 4 50 

Superior tape measures, each 50 

One dozen measures 3 50 

Bias rule, separate from system 1 00 

Armsize, separate from system 1 00 

French fashion journals furnished at lowest prices. 
All inquiries, with postage-stamp enclosed, promptly answered. 

Systems sent on receipt of P» O. order, registered 
letter— or C. O. D. when the Express Charges are 
forwarded with the order. 



SPECIAL TERMS TO AGENTS. 



PATTERNS BY THE 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



013 973 077 P f 



A set of patterns comprises a dozen different styles, including 
Basques, Jackets, Polonaises, Tunics, Wrappings, etc. They are $9 
and $12 per dozen. The $12 sets are composed of imported tissue 
papers, of different colors, fancifully trimmed. The $9 sets represent 
the same design and trimming, but in a heavier paper of a light buff 
tint, manufactured especially for our demand. The latter are $5 per 
half dozen. Trimmed skirts arc not included in the dozen, as they 
belong virtually to costumes. 

Costumes vary in price from $6 to $25, according to the elabora- 
tion of design and trimming. 

PRICE LIST OP SINGLE TRIMMED PATTERNS. 

Trimmed Polonaises cost from $1 50 to $2 00 apiece. 

« Basques " 1 25 to 1 75 " 

" Over-skirts « 1 25 to 2 00 u 

« Sacques " 1 25 to J 75 " 

« AYiapper " 2 00 to 4 00 << 

Children's Costumes " 2 00 to 1 00 " 

Each trimmed pattern has a plain duplicate to cut from. 




PRICE LIST OF PLAIN PATTERNS. 

Polonaise - $ 

Polonaise, both sides 

Basque 

Jacket - 

Train Skirt 

Demi-train Skirt 

Walking Skirt 

Over-skirt 

Over-skirt, both sides 

Eobe-de-Chambre 

Princess Dress 

Talma 

Opera Cloak 

Water-proof Circle 

Pelisse 

Sack 

Fichu 

Sleeve 

Misses' Polonaise 

( Jhild's Polonaise 

Child's Over-skirt 

Child's Sack 

Child's Talma 

Plain Patterns, per dozen, $6. 



(-0 
00 

50 
50 
00 
75 
75 
50 
75 
00 
00 
50 
50 
50 
50 
50 
35 
20 
50 
35 
50 
25 
25 




Price, 50 Cenls. 






LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




013 973 077 A 



Hollinger Corp. 



